Ohhhh Positano, with your cascading views, steep roads and beautiful beaches.. how I love you. When we arrived to Positano via ferry from Capri, I felt like I had finally arrived to the Italy I’d always imagined. I’d been dreaming about coming here for years and we were ACTUALLY THERE.
We got off the ferry, with our over-sized backpacks we had packed for about a month of travel, and started walking in the direction we assumed our hotel was in. We had a screen-shot on my phone from the last time we had wifi and were able to look up the directions, so we started up the road. We knew Positano was full of steps and steep walkways, but we didn’t know exactly what we were getting ourselves into.
We walked for what felt like an hour (but which was probably only about 20 minutes), up stairwells and down paths with signs we didn’t exactly understand, until we finally arrived at our Hotel, Art Hotel Pasitea. This hotel was great! Not the fanciest we’ve ever seen, but our balcony had a beautiful view, the staff was super friendly and helpful and we ending up really loving the location up in the hills away from the crowds.
When we walked in the concierge said “Oh, you must have taken the bus to get here. It drops off right in front.” Oops. He must not have had a good look at us yet, because our sweat-soaked shirts would say otherwise. Needless to say, if you stay here, take the city bus, which you can pick up right above the beach area in the little town and it will take you up the road in no time for just a few Euro.
After we checked in and went up to the room, I took a shower and got situated while my husband went for a quick walk around the neighborhood (this happens just about everywhere we go – I need a minute to unwind and he likes to set out on a quick little adventure to scope things out – it works perfectly). On his walk he found a restaurant with an AMAZING view, made a reservation for dinner and came back to say “I found our dinner spot! Even if the food isn’t great, the view is worth it,” and he was so right!
Luckily, the food (and wine) was fantastic at Gabrisa Positano! Check out this view though!
Italians tend to eat later than we are used to in Hawaii, but I would still recommend showing up here a bit earlier so you can catch the sunset while you enjoy a drink!
The next morning we woke up, had breakfast and coffee in our hotel (the breakfast was decent and included in our hotel price) and headed to the beach! We enjoyed the steep walk down to the beach town as we stopped to take photos and marvel at the view.
We are typically pretty early risers – so we got to the beach before ANYONE else had arrived and reserved a few lounge chairs for the day. I found these early mornings to be some of my favorites of our trip because we were able to enjoy each place for ourselves before the madness began. July and August are high season on the Italian Coast and in the afternoons, everything gets pretty busy. Getting to the beach early meant we were able to swim and enjoy the quiet before everyone arrived. After about a few hours, it started to rain a bit. We thought we’d wait it out (coming from Hawaii we’re used to a quick downpour, followed by sunshine and we don’t mind getting a little wet) but then it started to REALLY come down on us. We packed up our things and headed into the little shops along with crowds of people who had the same idea.
We found a little cafe, ordered a glass of wine (I think it was probably 11:00 by then…okay, so maybe it was only 10:00 or 10:30, don’t judge us….) and a pastry and sat out the storm. There was louder and brighter thunder and lightning than I’d ever seen or heard and everyone packed inside doing the same thing we did. We actually got a huge kick out of it. Two minutes ago we were on the beach, now we’re ducking for cover from the craziest storm we’d possibly ever seen. About an hour went by and the weather did just what it does in Hawaii – it started to clear, the clouds parted and the sun started to shine. We paid our bill and walked around the little shops before heading back down to the beach.
This time we ordered some Italian beer and olives and spent the rest of the afternoon lounging in the sun until we’d had enough and headed back up to our room.
*Tip – the sand here isn’t smooth and fine like we are used to in Hawaii – instead it’s made up of tiny pebbles that get extremely hot when the sun is blazing. Make sure to wear your slippahs (sandals or flip-flops) down to the water to avoid burning your toes!
We spent the rest of our time walking around the city, visiting the small shops, enjoying the views, and drinking more wine of course.
We left a little piece of our hearts in Positano and can’t wait to return someday!